Europe
Hiking from Vernazza to Corniglia along the coastline of Italy's Cinque Terre
Ema Bakalova
May 1, 2024
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Welcome to Cinque Terre! For those unfamiliar, Cinque Terre is a series of 5 charming coastal villages strung along the Italian Riviera. These picturesque enclaves, reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast to the south, capture visitors with their vivid, striking architecture nestled against the steep cliffs. Reaching this stunning location requires some planning, but this article will offer you some advice on how to complete one of the best hikes through some of the most charming villages. Our journey begins with our arrival in La Spezia.
Taking the ferry from La Spezia
We traveled from Pisa to La Spezia by train, a trip that took about an hour. La Spezia, is the port city in Liguria, Italy, and the departure point for the ferry to the five villages of Cinque Terre. When you arrive, there is a scenic 30-minute walk through the city to the ferry terminal and waterfront. The walk through the city is beautiful, so arriving a bit earlier to enjoy it without rushing is well worth it.
The 5 villages of Cinque Terre that you can visit:
Cinque Terre comprises five picturesque villages. You can explore these villages by hiking, boating, or taking the train, choosing the mode and order that best suits your time and energy levels. However, there are a few important considerations to keep in mind for each village.
Village 1: Riomaggiore
The hiking trail from Riomaggiore to Corniglia has been closed since 2018 due to a landslide, making it inaccessible for hiking. You can explore the village by arriving via boat or train.
Village 2: Manarola
The hiking trail from Riomaggiore to Corniglia has been closed since 2018 due to a landslide, making it inaccessible for hiking. You can explore the village by arriving via boat or train.
Village 3: Corniglia
No boat or ferry can stop at this village, as it's the only village of Cinque Terre not directly adjacent to the sea. We concluded our hike in this village, which is absolutely stunning upon arrival.
Village 4: Vernazza
We got off the ferry in Vernazza and began our hike in reverse, heading back towards Corniglia. This route is one of the most popular, offering some of the best views, and it will be the focus of this article. You might decide to hike from Corniglia to Vernazza, but I recommend starting in Vernazza; the views are significantly more impressive when approached from this direction.
Village 5: Monterosso al Mare
Since we had only one day and the hikes are quite time-consuming, we decided to skip the final village after hearing that its architecture wasn't as impressive as the others. Known for its beautiful beaches, this relatively flat village is accessible and ideal for families who prefer minimal climbing.
Taking the ferry to Vernazza
The best way to experience all the villages of Cinque Terre is by taking the ferry, sailing from one village to the next and disembarking at your chosen destination. I recommend starting your adventure in Vernazza, the third stop on the ferry and an ideal point for exploration. Although you can travel by train to each village, the ferry offers a unique perspective – It's the only way to fully appreciate the stunning views of the villages from the water.
Ferry Schedule
Check the ferry schedule in advance because the ferries only come once an hour. Once you reach the waterfront, you'll find the ticket booth to your right, located in the opposite direction from the cruise terminal.
The ferry
We boarded a ferry with a large group of people from all across the globe. Behind us was a group of friends from France, to our left a group of Spaniards, and to our right, the boat’s guardrail and the water. For the best views of the villages from the water, try to sit on the right side of the boat! Fortunately, we traveled on a calm and clear day. The boat sails through open waters, so be prepared for potential rough seas if the weather turns windy; even during calm weather, I got a bit seasick when we were idling at ferry stops.
High season and low season
We visited Cinque Terre at the beginning of May, a time that is not typically considered "high season." Given how busy it was then, I can hardly imagine the crowds during the summer months. I would recommend visiting at the end of April or the beginning of May to avoid the high season for several reasons, primarily to escape the heat and congestion.
Lunch in Vernazza
Approaching the ferry terminal, you're greeted by the impressive, jagged cliffs framing the waterfront. Colorful umbrellas dot the cliff's seaside restaurant, nestled on man-made balconies carved into the rock face, offering a picturesque view of the sea.
We opted to have lunch at that restaurant, one of the first restaurants there in Vernazza. Sitting high above the crowd below, it felt like a secluded, private spot that had an incredible view of the water.
Sea bass and wine
If you're a seafood lover, this is the perfect spot! We ordered bass fish, freshly caught that morning, with vegetables and wine. The staff was welcoming, the atmosphere was uplifting and everyone around us genuinely seemed happy. Both the cuisine and the ambiance were outstanding..
Just don't drink an entire bottle of wine before your hike ;)
Belforte Restaurant
Close to the ferry terminal, this cliffside restaurant offers a beautiful view of the water. Vernazza is still considered to be one of the traditional fishing villages on the Italian Riviera, hence, the extensive seafood offerings on the menu.
Starting your hike and things to be aware of
The hikes between villages could be considered quite challenging for the average person, with extended stretches comparable to climbing stairs—something that would undoubtedly be tougher in the heat of summer. The trail offers a decent balance between uphill sections, flat stretches, and downhill paths, but it leans heavily toward uphill terrain.
The paths are quite narrow, and I imagine they could become uncomfortably crowded during high season.
The trail
Once you begin your hike, your options are limited: you must either complete it or turn back the way you came. A small fee is required for hiking the trail, and you'll come across the ticket booth as you begin your hike, or you can buy in advance.
Glimpse into the history of this coastal village
Each village is small, so for a good view from above, you'll need to walk to a viewpoint away from the center. Narrow alleyways invite exploration, while the colorful, cliffside houses showcase the locals' ingenuity in making the most out of the limited space and serving as guiding landmarks for fishermen returning from the sea.
The colorful facades are said to have served as navigational aids, helping seafarers identify their homes from afar.
Bright hues and clustered buildings
From above, you see the tightly clustered buildings, painted in an array of bright hues including warm yellows, deep oranges, and rich reds, cascading down the steep cliffsides. Each house tells a story, with charming weathered facades and terracotta-tiled roofs.
Along the trail
Along the trail, there isn't much besides fellow hikers. You might come across a juice stand or a couple of restaurants, but otherwise, it's just you, the trail, and the surrounding trees. The real reason most people embark on this hike is for the stunning views that come around every few minutes. What fascinated me was the way each village extended into the water, with colorful clusters visible at each end. The trail from Vernazza to Corniglia is dotted with "peek-a-boo" openings that provide glimpses of the next village, helping you gauge your progress.
Arriving in Corniglia
Corniglia is situated on a promontory about 100 meters above sea level, making it the only village of the Cinque Terre not directly adjacent to the sea (this is why the ferry doesn't stop here – there is no access to the water). It's characterized by its tranquil atmosphere, lemon trees, fields of grape vines, draped laundry and men who might pull up beside you and yell "bella, bellaaa!" Although it's the smallest village, it still offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding coastline.
A stairway known as the Lardarina links the village to the train station. If you're traveling between Corniglia and the train station, or vice versa, prepare for a descent or ascent involving several hundred stairs (approx. 380). From the heart of Corniglia, expect another 20-30 minute walk to reach the train station.
Corniglia vs Vernazza
While both Corniglia and Vernazza are picturesque villages with stunning coastal scenery, Corniglia offers a more tranquil, elevated experience, while Vernazza has a very lively waterfront experience and bustling harbor activity. If you have limited time and can only choose a couple of villages to visit, these are the ones I would recommend. Here's a comparison between the two, so you can decide which of them you'd like to explore further!
Corniglia
Corniglia is unique among the Cinque Terre villages in that it's not directly situated by the sea. As a result, there's no sandy beach, but there is a shallow bay accessible below the village.
It is known for its serene atmosphere, distinguishing it from the other villages, creating a picturesque setting for leisurely strolls.
Via Fieschi is the village's central area, home to most bars, shops, and restaurants, and it is much quieter than Vernazza.
Corniglia's elevated position and serene ambiance attracts visitors seeking a quieter, more intimate experience and a place to spend the night.
Vernazza
It is one of the more vibrant and lively villages of the Cinque Terre, with bustling piazzas, bustling waterfront cafes, and a bustling harbor where fishing boats bob in the waters.
Vernazza, is nestled along the rugged coastline, and has a large natural harbor and picturesque waterfront.
Vernazza is famous for its iconic harbor, dominated by a medieval castle and a colorful array of pastel-hued houses that cascade down the hillside.
Visitors to Vernazza can explore its narrow alleyways and visit the historic church of Santa Margherita d'Antiochia.
Through this blog, I hope to inspire you to seek out unique traveling opportunities, spark your love for travel and discover beautiful architecture. If you liked this article, sign up to get notified whenever a new post gets published!
